This is a good DIY tool for saving the expense of a full alignment if you have a vehicle that drives nice but shows tire wear on the inside or outside. I just jack the wheel off the ground and remove it. Then place this on the strut and set it to zero and tighten the wing nut down real good. Loosen the strut bolts and do whatever.The intended purpose is good too. Zero it on the strut and the tenderly remove it and carefully set it out of the way. Replace your axle or strut or whatever. When you reassemble then put this carefully back on the strut and adjust the strut bolts so it is at zero again and tighten things down.Needs some work. I left it Im my car for weeks & the magnet came unglued. Not an issue since when on the wheel the magnet holds the gauge on. I swapped out the thumb nut for a locking nut. The bubble glass is only covered by a plastic ruler so when that came apart the glass bubble tube cam out & broke. Looking at the design it would be easy to rig up a 8" construction level to do the same thing unless you actually needed to know the degrees.Non need for me to purchase another & Im not sure that I would have bought it in the 1st place except for the price.This tool performs as advertised. The level and base need to lock together more securely. Once set, I needed to use caution when removing it from brake disc so as not to change setting. I don't believe it would be possible to perform any work on the vehicle with this tool in place without having the setting change. That being said, I would recommend this tool to the DIY mechanic. Using this is easier and more accurate than using scribe marks to facilitate reassembly.would have given 5 stars if not for the wingnut. Failed on first attempt to tighten it up; another case of Standard vs Metric. Luckily had something to replace it with.Tool itself worked fine. Not sure about accuracy, but at least it allowed to judge adjustment of left and right sides to keep cross camber inline. The wingnut allows to set zero, so you are painlessly measuring relative adjustment not the actual numbers. Which is really useful when can't 100% level car.And when you look at alternatives you just can't beat the price.As advertised, provides a way of restoring camber after a lowering from springs/suspension changes. We found the magnet so strong it was hard to remove from the brake disc without altering the level. So it can work easier by taking the magnet out, press firmly to the disc, adjust to zero, then set aside, do your mods, then restore camber to zero position. For doing both sides of the car, note difference in the level (if the car is not perfectly flat), and restore the difference.Contruction is fine. Basically it you set it up and then swap out your strut. It allows to to put the new strut in to the same setting as your old one. However if your old one was not correct in camber then of course your new one won't be correct either. Not exactly what I thought I was getting but it could prove useful in the future. Just wasn't the right tool for the job at the time. Not taking anything away from what it is.In theory this would be a practical tool for restoring a car's alignment after replacing a strut, but sadly it is not. First, while the magnet is strong enough to hold to a hub, there is essentially nothing to attach it to on most cars because a front wheel drive axle protrudes beyond the hub and the axle diameter is too small for the magnet to be solidly attached to. Second, there is a little wingnut that is supposed to "lock" your measurement in place, but anything stronger that a mild breeze will overcome the resistance provided and render your measurement useless, thereby rendering the whole purchase useless. My advice is just to use a carpenters level. It won't be accurate enough to skip the alignment shop, but it will be accurate enough to get you to the alignment shop.Makes a great paper weight! I had to modify it out of the box to get it to work. The wing nut couldn't sufficiently tighten the hinge to prevent the gauge from moving. It seemed as if they used a SAE nut on a SI bolt, it simply wouldn't tighten enough before jumping the threads. A couple rubber washers and the correct nut (M6x1.0 if i remember correctly) seems to have done the trick. Just need it to be good enough to ballpark the angles. I guess I won't know how it did until I get an actual alignment done.